Anticipating Loading vs. Diving During Jump Practice

jumping_and_stopping_w+wo_lines_on_mark_10-5-19 copyI overlaid screenshots of Takoda practicing jumping early in his career so jumps were set at 16″ vs. 20-22″.  I think these screenshots show how a dog starting with his front feet UP on a well-placed Mark and driving towards another well-placed Mark at the reward point creates a consistent jumping style over all three jumps.  Comparing the take-off spots for theh three jumps, you can see his rear feet are perfectly centered.   You can also see how he is loading to stop on the ending Mark and that his back is in a similar position as it would be if loading for another jump.    If I had used a placed toy instead of a Mark, his head would have reached forward and down during the last jumping arc, pivoting his body weight forward (like a see-saw) onto his shoulders as he dove like an arrow into the ground to grab the toy.   Previous posts show videos of this diving action for a toy.

I can’t think of any reason NOT to use Marks for jumping practice.


Structure. Structure. Structure.

Good example of how structure affects dogs jumping style as well as take-off and landing spots. These screenshots are from the Crufts video I posted earlier. You can see extremely different jumping styles. Not only is the Kelpie’s jumping arc longer, his speed was so much greater than I had to duplicate 5 screenshots of the kelpie to extend the airtime so the take-off and landing moments were similar to the Terv’s. Even though the Kelpie was running faster than the Terv, he was still able to load deeper to shift his momentum from forward to upward making it possible for him to take off closer to the jump than the Terv. His strong powerful momentum created a longer arc which peaked AFTER the jump. In comparison, the Terv looks like it took a lot more effort to lift UP his front legs and notice how he let them drop as soon as they cleared the bar. His rear legs were tucked throughout the jumping action and his neck looks quite short when his front feet hit the ground. I would call the Terv an early-landing dog due to structure.. and the Kelpie a natural jumper due to structure.

(below) video these screenshots were taken from.

2007 Crufts ABC. Interesting to see how dogs coped with super tight spacing back then….and a slippery surface. Check out the position of each dog’s rear legs over jumps. One kelpie around 7:20 does a little extra kick up when rear legs are extended. Oddly, I think this tight spacing made jumping easier for some dogs because they never had a chance to open up and really run so they never had to power down to really collect. 🙂

A dog jumping with a raised head? Look again.

Dots added to show the heights and moving paths of withers (WHITE), nose (RED) and base of the tail (BLUE).

Here is what’s most surprising to me. Even though the dog’s head LOOKS raised when his front feet hit the ground, the RED dots show the nose arc remains perfectly smooth and consistent. No abrupt raising of the head.  I think all three arcs look well balanced.

The other surprising thing is the nose dots are consistently lower than the withers dots even though it LOOKS like the dog is raising his head higher than his withers when lifting off and floating over the bar. Crazy illusions shattered by adding DOTS.  Who would think?

I hope to find videos of other dogs jumping in extension (side views) to compare jumping styles and arcs of withers, noses, and bases of tails.

I plan to do the same for jumping in collection.   Right now I am busy with other projects but stay tuned.   FYI-  The Facbook Group “Canine Jumping Forum” has some interesting conservations going on right now.   Ask to join and I’ll add you as a member.

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Canine Jumping Gold Standard or Fool’s Gold?

I am not calling anyone a fool.  I just like catchy titles!

This blog post came about when I noticed something totally unexpected while watching videos of my dog jumping and driving to a placed toy or a mark bucket.   My premise is that dogs (and other animals such as horses) use their necks to help soften the blow on their shoulders/ front legs when landing after jumping.  I believe a lack of understanding about toy placement is creating repetitive diving by agility dogs where their necks are not moving naturally due to targeting toys.  I am not against using toys but I think the toy needs to be placed further away from jumps than the current norm so the toy doesn’t impact the dog’s ability to use his neck in a natural way when landing.

The videos and screenshots are from an experiment I set up to determine the best spacing to a stop behavior after a jump (or jump grid) taken at speed.  Toys were used for the purpose of comparison. I didn’t intend to have any insights about toy placement. In hindsight, had I thought about how much space a dog needs to comfortably stop on a table after a jump, I would have come to the same conclusion.  Dogs need a minimum of  2 full strides after landing for an upcoming stop not to influence how they jump and land.


(above) Dog on right is driving towards a toy. Dog on left is driving towards a stopped behavior on a mark bucket.  The dog’s starting point was 15′ from the jump.  The toy and mark bucket were placed 15′ past the jump.  This was part of my experiment to determine optimal reward distances. 15′ was not enough distance for extension jumping.  

This link has a great description of canine jumping by a sports medicine vet:…/how-does-your-dog-jump…

(below) The mark bucket was too close to the jump.  I would not place a mark bucket or toy this close for a dog with Takoda’s stride length.  He had to work super hard to get his body organized in that short distance between landing and the mark bucket.

(below) Dog’s topline on the right was copied to dog on left to accentuate what is different. His back looks nearly identical in both (no butt flipping in either due to relaxed rear tucked legs vs. legs fully extended/ straight back). The main difference is the position of his head relative to his body. Dogs don’t look at their landing spots or dive into the ground like an arrow when running agilitiy courses.  They tend to look ahead to what is coming next… if we are doing our jobs as handlers.


(below) Video comparison with the reward point at about 22′. The green dog is running to a static toy. The red dog is running towards a stopped behavior.

When the reward point was far away from the jump (22′), the toy did not create a lowered head because it was so far forward the dog could see it and aim for it with a level head. On a side note, the distant toy created consistently earlier take-offs and landings compared to a stopped behavior.. just by by a foot or so no big deal.


(below) Top two images are with a placed toy at 6-7’and a stopped behavior at about 9′. Bottom images are with the toy at 12′ and the stop at 15′.  I had to move the toy closer than the stop to get a similar collection.  You can see how moving the reward points closer exaggerates the body position differences between driving towards a toy and a stopped behavior. The video clips I used for these screenshots were synced over the bar so the landing timing is not exactly “apples to apples” but I think it’s clear that the dog is anticipating what comes next before taking off for the jump… just like when running a course. jumping_9-_top_15-bottom_toyR_markL_comparison_9-13-19

(below) Video comparison of relative collection driving to a closer stopped behavior (stopping necessitates loading as though for another jump) and driving to a static toy, which I needed to place closer in order to get similar relative collection. When I set the reward point at 22′, the differences in form were negligible due to the toy being so far ahead that it no longer created a lowered head. I think the photo (above) on the lower right shows how extreme the first stride needs to be after diving into the ground to grab a toy.  It looks kind of cool but I think it’s saving him from doing a face plant. Imagine what a longer-backed dog would need to do to change the direction of travel from diving to running.

(above) You might notice Takoda didn’t break into a full run on one approach (slo mo) in anticipation of stopping so close 9’.   I think it shows how much he is thinking about what comes next and how difficult it is to load and stop that close to a jump.

If a dog has done a lot of jump training and jump grids that end with diving to grab a static toy that is placed less than 18′ or 20′ for a border collie sized dog (and stride length), I think its possible the dog will learn to dive over the last bar on course.  Another factor that might influence a dog’s jumping style or ability to keep bars up is a visible toy is a lure.  Are dogs looking for the toy and when they don’t see one, not know how to jump that last jump?  I don’t know.   One reason I like my dogs to drive to a mark bucket is because they are driving to a high value “behavior” vs a lure.  I think this difference is significant in terms of what a dog is learning and thinking about when they are approaching, jumping, and landing.

(above) One of Takoda’s early jumping “experiences” including some GO ONs to a ball flung far and over his head.   I either send him to a mark bucket or throw a ball over his head.

Since horses seem to come up when discussing canine jumping, here is a link for more information on horses:

(above) example of a horse free jumping that a couple of horse people thought was good natural form.  Notice how the horse raises his head when landing.

(above) cat jumping in slo-mo.  Notice how the cat uses his neck when landing.

(below) Watch slo-mo video comparison of my dog LANDING when driving towards a STOP (top) vs. a TOY (bottom).

(below) screen shot from video. Driving to a STOP (top) and TOY (bottom).


(below) Wrapping.  No dramatic difference in body position when using a toy or mark for wraps, except for head and neck position when landing.  The starting spots varied in terms of distance to the jump (sloppy on my part), but I don’t think it affected the overall test.  More speed on the approach would make it easier to see what is different due to a more forceful landing but that is not something I plan to do for obvious reasons.

(below) The toy and mark buckets were positioned 20-22 feet away. The field was sloping up to the right a bit.  The difference in landing position is negligable at this distance.

I encourage people to watch trial videos of their dogs and other dogs in slo-mo and focus on body positions when landing.  I watched a bunch of videos of some of the fastest agility dogs that don’t knock bars (and some that do).  They never land with their necks straight and heads diving into the ground.  Dogs use their necks to help soften the blow on their shoulders/ front legs when landing after jumping.   If toys are used, they need to be placed far enough away from jumps so the toy doesn’t impact the dog’s ability to use his or her neck ito help buffer their shoulders from the impact of landing.



Motion Parallax and Canine Agility

Last week, I tried handling a jumpers running closer to my border collie than I’m used to. This was a test to see if handling closer works better than handling from a distance.  The results of this test were surprising.  I couldn’t nail down the handling or timing for a simple soft turn off a straight line (which had a wrong course option straight ahead).   I was either too early or too late, too dramatic or not dramatic enough.  It was baffling until I realized the underlying issue was I could not see my dog well when running this close to him and he couldn’t see me well either.
I couldn’t remember the term that day but this morning it popped into mind: “Motion Parallax.”   It explains why its so much harder to see our dogs and for our dogs to see us when we are handling close to them.  The first 30 seconds of the video offers a great example of how closer objects appear to be moving faster than distant objects… which explains why its so much harder to see what our dogs are doing (and what they need from us to show them the path ahead)  when they are running close to us.
On a related note, I think Motion Parallax is the #1 contributing factor to the common handler experience/ excuse 🙂  “My dog is just too fast.”  In most cases (like 95%), its not that the dog is too fast or that the handler is too slow….. but rather that the handler is trying to give direction to her dog from a position that is “just too close.”
There you have it.  My random thought of the day.

NADAC course design from a dog’s perspective

This blog post contains my first and last thoughts on the topic of NADAC course design from the perspective of the dog:

First thoughts:

Both my dogs ran this NADAC Elite Jumpers Course in March. For clarity sake, several of my friends have run this same course at different trials but it was set up differently and ran differently as a result. This post only refers to the opening sequence seen on this map which I think matched the course we ran in March very well.


The opening sequence reminded me of the types of handling challenges I used to see on AKC courses back in 2012 when I still competed in multiple venues. But lately I’ve been seeing more and more NADAC course maps with this same type of challenge thrown into otherwise fast and flowing courses…. which IMO changes the challenge tremendously due to 21′ NADAC obstacle spacing which has a profound affect on the way dogs move through courses (I am referring to dogs that are really running vs. casually loping along).

My understanding has always been that NADAC courses were designed primarily for dogs. Courses were designed with the natural movement of dogs in mind. NADAC is unique in its encouragement of handlers who want to explore the exciting realm of big distance handling with their dogs which necessitates mutually respect and an equal partnership between handlers and dogs. There is no other venue that offers this level of support and encouragement. Distance is an integral part of NADAC… imo.

In other venues, jumpers courses are not designed to be run at a distance. My understanding as well as my personal experience running NADAC courses with three different dogs, is courses run smoother and faster at a distance (if dogs have the necessary foundation skills) even with mini-dogs. My personal opinion about the opening sequence above is that its a good example of a current common challenge I’m seeing that has a better chance of a dog running fluidly with close handling and a bit of micro-management to help fast and long-striding dogs get through illogical spots that necessitate collection and lead changes like seen at LC1 and LC2 if the handler is on the dog’s right side. I suppose one could eliminate LC1 by handling from the dog’s left side to start so the dog starts and starts off on the left lead but that is besides the point of this post.

My dogs are trained to work at a distance and they appear to enjoy the freedom that comes with distance. They get to use their intelligence to run the courses I’m showing them however they see fit (in collection or in extension). For for me, I would not choose to handle that opening sequence up close or want to micro-manage to force collection or an awkward lead change. My approach is to look at bonus boxes for handling clues…whether I plan to attempt a bonus or not. I learned this from my good friend Lynn Smitley who said something like “the bonus box is a clue about the course designer’s intended handling challenges.” When Lynn uttered these words years ago, she was 100% correct. Bonus boxes used to offer valuable information about handling options even when I expanded the box significantly which I often did. However, now when I look at bonus boxes, I often feel like they were added after the course was designed vs. being an integral part of the design. And when I walk some (not all) of the current courses, I wonder if the course designer took time to envision a full range of dogs running the course to see if the motion required of them was reasonable/ logical to dogs.

Takoda has been out of commission since a mid-March trial due to a sacrum injury. This has given me 6 weeks to think about what I want to do moving forward. I still love NADAC and sincerely hope the future of NADAC course design will incorporate some sort of review process that will ensure course challenges continue in the NADAC tradition of rewarding dogs that have been trained to run courses with intelligence, confidence, fluidity, and speed at reasonable to big distances from their handlers. IMO this is the core of NADAC. Its what sets NADAC apart from other venues.

Takoda running his first Elite Chances a year ago. Truth be told he had been running Chances courses from the Elite line from the beginning (six months prior when he turned 18 months old) so nothing felt different to him.  It was just another fun course!

Last thoughts:

After receiving a fair amount of push back, I attempted to explain why I think what I think….. the thinking behind my thinking.  😉   Here is my final post on the topic of course design from a dog’s perspective…. as I see it:

I thought about posting more course maps to “make my case” / show examples of other sections that I feel would support my POV but the response will likely still be IT’S A HANDLING ISSUE or perhaps shift to IT’S A TRAINING ISSUE.  I think we all agree that running courses necessitates appropriate and timely handling and that handling is a whole lot easier if a dog has good foundation skills.

I was hoping for a broader conversation about THE GUIDING PRINCIPLES OF NADAC COURSE DESIGN which I used to think were heavily weighted towards the dog’s perspective and how dogs naturally move.  I  honestly always thought NADAC courses were designed first and foremost with dogs in mind which led me to  stop competing in other venues many years ago for the sake of my much beloved dogs.  Was my thinking misguided all along?  I don’t think so.  There have always been things I have not liked about NADAC like the 8′ A-frame at champs when most clubs use 9’ers, or the way dogs were divided into groups prior to 2016 (or whenever they changed grouping to be by wither height vs. jump height) but those issues have not stopped me from wanting to stay fully engaged.  But over the past year or so, I honestly think I’m seeing real changes in how dogs are navigating through what I call “choppy” or “illogical” sections of courses. This has stopped me in my tracks.

When I watch teams run courses, I naturally watch the dog vs. the handler unless I try really really hard to TRY TO WATCH the handler too but I’m still mostly watching the dog.  I can’t help myself.   I think watching a bunch of dogs run the same course shows course design from the dog’s perspective.  “Choppy” can be minimized and barely noticeable with PERFECT handling or when handlers run their “comfortable as an old shoe” dogs or when handlers run slower dogs that lope through courses.. or run mini-dogs that take 5 strides between most obstacles.  But inherent choppiness (of course design) can still be visible even with these groups of dogs in subtle ways if you look closely.

I love watching the details of a dog’s movement: where they are looking, where they add a stride or leave a stride out, where and when they change leads, where their footwork is funky (tripping over themselves, slipping, scrambling, or turning the wrong way) where less motivated dogs turn to sniffing, or high strung dogs turn to barking, jumping, nipping, or running off to take whatever obstacle, or just running.

I will offer details of the opening sequence (the way I see it from the dog’s perspective) but I don’t want to have a conversation about the minutiae of this opening sequence.   I could have easily picked another sequence with different minutiae.  The following description is not about handling… Its about canine motion.. what the long-striding or super fast dog is likely doing on this opening sequence.  This is my attempt to have a conversation about the guiding principles of NADAC course design.  I don’t know how else to say it.

To answer another NADAC competitor’s question: What would have made the opening sequence more NADACee comes from the dog’s perspective.  Modify jump #4 (and shift other jumps affected by the changes made to #4) (or change what happens after #4). The purpose of changing #4 is not to soften the path from #3 – #4 but rather to take into consideration the dog’s natural movement and lead changes from the start line to the #3 jump.  Dogs running in semi-collection and medium to slow speed dogs have plenty of opportunities (more strides and more time) to change to the left lead when pushed out to #3 and then change back to the right lead without also needing to power down (collect) before jumping #3.  A loping dog will have no trouble getting back on the right lead and then taking a stride on that right lead to jump #3.  This offers a nice turn to #4.. no choppiness.

Long-striding, enthusiastic, confident big dogs will power off the start line and jump #1 in extension, landing long, then take one full stride to a nice take off spot for jumping #2 in extension.  They will jump #2 in extension landing long again (dog still on the right lead which the subtle arc of my blue line on the map indicates). The handler can begin to push after the dog is committed to #2 and an experienced dog might switch leads in the air but more likely the dog will land on its right lead then switch to the left lead as he moves away from the handler towards #3.  Once the dog is committed to the lead change, the handler can release pressure and begin to cue collection… but it has to happen in a millesecond… because a long-striding dog running with strong forward momentum will need time to reorganize his body and legs to power down, add a stride, and switch leads again.  Up until the point of cuing collection the dog is planning on jumping #3 in extension.. because of the change to left lead and seeing the #6 jump as the next logical jump.

If indeed this type of sequence is so common in NADAC that experienced dogs come to recognize it and run it with some self-directed collection, I have to ask the question:  How did these dogs gain that experience? My answer is by earlier lessons such as hard landings… sometimes on the wrong lead, being called off WCs, running around jumps, tripping over themselves trying to make surprise turns, losing their flow.  What other types of lessons might some dogs learn as they gain “experience” running through what I call “choppy” sequences: I better slow down, I better leave start line cautiously, I better run in semi-collection, I better wait for my handler to show me the next obstacle.

The point I am trying to make is if a long-striding dog powers out of the start line, the combination of lead changes and collection necessary to get a nice turn from #3 to #4 will create unnatural movement for the dog.  This imo takes the wind (joy) out of many dog’s sails and adds wind (frustration) in other dog’s sails causing things to fall apart between #4 and #5.   One can watch teams run this sequence and say  “The handler was ‘late” but imo,  the underlying cause was the long striding confident dog didn’t have time to organize himself given the tasks at hand…2 lead changes combined with powering down from 2 strides to either 3 or 4 strides between #1 and #3.

Can long-striding dogs get through this sequence? Yes.  Can “old comfortable shoe” dogs make this sequence look nice? Yes… but that is not my point.   Are these the kinds of challenges the course designer intended for dogs to have?  I don’t think so.  I think they are just a byproduct of a sequence designed for the handler.. which is unNADACee to me.   There are so many different ways to challenge handlers while also keeping the dog’s perspective in mind.

On an ending note, every “old shoe” dog started off as a young dog with endless possibilities.   What types of “experiences” we want our dogs to have is up to us.   I have learned so much from my young, long-striding, totally biddable, intelligent BC Takoda who always gives me his best effort and shows me agility from a dog’s perspective.






Takoda found two lost gloves which had been dropped during a SAR mission a few weeks ago


Takoda continues to amaze me with both his talent when it comes to using his nose and brain for Search and Rescue and his understanding that he needs to communicate to me when he has found something.

Two days ago, a fellow member of Front Range Rescue Dogs and I took Takoda to the area of a recent SAR mission to see if he would be able to find two gloves she dropped while providing field support for a dog team that day.  We both thought we had the GPS track of the dog handler to go by but when we arrived at the site, we realized neither of us had the track on our GPSs so we searched using a printed map which showed the dog handler’s track.  Without the GPS track to go by, we knew the deck was stacked against us since our accuracy with a map would not be nearly as good as with a GPS but it was a beautiful day for a hike and even though we came up empty handed we were able to narrow down the search area.  Afterwards,  we downloaded our tracks to see how well we did covering the area around the dog handler’s track.  The yellow track is the dog handler. The cyan and purple tracks are from the Friday search.  The pink track is from today’s search.


This morning the map above was the first thing I saw on my computer screen and after reviewing the tracks again, I spontaneously decided to give it another shot, this time having the benefit of the dog handler’s track on my GPS and a smaller search area.   An interesting side note (to me at least) is the southern drift of the pink track occurred when I let Takoda choose the direction of travel on our way back to the car.  I didn’t realize it at the time, but he was headed in a pretty straight line towards the car both times I let him “drive.”  Pretty cool.

My strategy today was to loosely follow the track of the dog handler but to choose the easiest path  up the hillside through a bunch of downed trees and dense areas of foliage.  My reasoning was the field member’s path would not have been identical to the dog handler’s path so I didn’t need to be super precise in following the dog handler’s track.  Also field support generally walks a parallel path to the dog handler off to one side or the other, so I picked whatever side looked more appealing…. where I’d have chosen to walk if I had been field support that day.

Based on Friday’s search, we put the highest POA as the steepest part of the hillside. This area had dense forest with a lot of downed trees, making the gloves unlikely to spot even if we walked close by.   Regardless of the odds against me spotting the gloves,  I took time to look around while walking through that area but my main focus was keeping an eye on Takoda.

The gloves turned out to be one tenth of a mile west of our highest POA.  On Friday, our tracks indicated we had been within 35 feet of the gloves, once on the way up (south of the gloves) and once on the way down (north of the gloves).  I wish I had put a  GPS collar on Takoda to see if he came close to the gloves on Friday.   I’m guessing he didn’t, based on the ease in which he found the gloves today, but I still wish I had the GPS collar on him.


(above) The view from the approach to the first glove.  Takoda took a sharp left turn before hopping over this section of downed trees.  He had been heading for an easier route over the trees to the right and I was going to follow him.  His abrupt turn caught my attention and lucky for me I followed him because…..


After Takoda hopped over the downed trees, he did an about-face and started trying to crawl under the tree to the left to get to the glove.   I didn’t see the glove at first but he kept trying to reach it with his paws which drew my attention to it.


(above) detail view of the glove.  It was either dragged there by an animal or was wind blown into that crevice.    There is no way I would have found it without Takoda’s help.

I think I was stunned and couldn’t believe he found the glove in that crevice.  After rewarding him, I made my first mistake.  I said FIND ANOTHER and he took off immediately while I stayed with the first glove to take photographs.  URG.  I should have waited to say FIND ANOTHER so I could follow him.  By the time I looked up, he was standing about 75 feet away looking at me while I was packing up my gear.  This is when I made my 2nd mistake. I should have just left my gear, and gone up to where he was standing and come back for my stuff.   Instead I kept packing and he came running back to me before immediately turning around and returning to the same spot up the hillside.  He stood there looking at me again before running back to me again.   It appeared he had found the second glove but then came my 3rd mistake.  I said SHOW ME  and started following him up the hill.  He must have assumed by my different response and cue, that I wanted him to bring me the second glove because that is what he did with great enthusiasm.   At that point, he had run back and forth between the glove and me three times and maintained eye contact while standing over the glove, waiting for me to come up there (I assume) and when I said SHOW ME,  he tried something different.  I rewarded Takoda for finding the second glove and then said something like WHERE WAS IT? at which point he took off and returned to the spot where he found the second glove.   How smart is that?  Pretty smart I think.


(above) the location of second glove

(above) second glove find

(above) going back to the spot where he found the second glove… which I was able to confirm by dog tracks in the snow.


The gloves.   May they rest in peace.

Mark Training Demo Videos. I’ll be adding more videos to this page over time.

Marks and Contacts:

(above) December 24, 2016. The purpose of this video is to show how a dog’s weight shift back when stopping on a Mark bucket is nearly identical to the weight shift back that needs to happen for a dog to perform a safe 2o2o on an A-Frame. The video with a Mark bucket was slowed down to match the speed of video with the A-Frame to better show the comparison. Training a dog to stop on a Mark bucket is an easy way to train a dog to use his body correctly for safe stopped contacts (2o2o or 4on), without subjecting the dog to endless repetitions over full-height equipment.

(above)  Takoda doing 4on the A-frame.   Note his position when going over the apex.  He is in control and collecting in preparation for stopping at the bottom.   One foot came off the A-frame to help him stop at the bottom, which I’m totally fine with because it’s really hard for a dog to drive that deep and stay 4on.  I decided to train 4on vs. 2o2o because occasionally young dogs speed get the best of them and I was betting on the fact if I trained Takoda to do 4on, if he couldn’t completely stop 4on, he’d gently step into a 2o2o.  If he was trained to do 2o2o, he’d either hit the ground super hard or leave the A-frame when he over-shot.  I cringed when Jake, my first agility dog did that and I think it put a few years on his shoulders and elbows.  Anyway, I love how Takoda went all the way to the bottom of the A-frame even with me lagging behind.  I also loved how tempted he was to come off the A-frame as I kept walking by, but he stayed put.

(above) One final comparison.  A straight approach to the A-frame and a row of 16″ jumps.  It’s amazing to me how similar my dog’s jumping form is in both scenarios.  I’ve found the same to be true with Lil, my Australian Terrier. I don’t know why those little glitches in motion are showing up during slo-mo.  The motion is smooth until I render the final composite. URG.

Marks and Jumping:

The thing that is so profound about using a Mark at the end of a jump grid or any sequence for that matter is the dog is focusing on and running towards a “behavior” vs. a “reward.”  This keeps the dog in a thinking/ working state of mind all the way to the Mark… and beyond since the dog needs to wait on the Mark while the handler walks over to deliver the reward.

(above) December 24, 2106. Lil’s first time jumping after taking a few months off from agility.   The Mark should have been two strides away from the last jump vs. one stride away as seen in this video. You can see that Lil doesn’t have time to rock back before hitting the Mark at the end of the grid when the bucket is so close to the last jump.

(above) I set up this bounce grid to test Mark bucket spacing. Placing the starting Mark where I’d naturally position my dog for a jump grid worked well (obviously). The ending Mark seemed to work best when placed a couple of strides after the last jump (in Lil’s case about 8′ away).

(above) Lil, one stride between jumps.

(above) Although Takoda was exposed to SS puppy grids way back when, I don’t do much jump training with my dogs. The video above is of Takoda bouncing over 16″ jumps.   The spacing of the jumps in the first two reps was tight and awkward looking but it didn’t seem to faze Takoda’s enthusiasm. The thing I like best about using a Mark at the end of a jump grid is how the dog continues to weight shift back vs diving over the last bar to get to a toy or food target placed on the ground. I think its clear that starting with a “super sit” on a Mark works great for insuring a nice weight shift back from the start.  I think everything is easier to see with a long-legged dog like Takoda vs. a short-legged dog like Lil.  Although I find it useful to watch both dogs to see how different their jumping styles are.. due to radically different body types.

Mark Training Videos

(above)  Mark Demo using a single bucket. Very basic skills being practiced by both of us! For me this session was about trying to remember to reward in heel position.

(above)  Adding more fun stuff and handling variety to Mark training.  Once a dog is reliably running to the Mark, sticking his landings, and waiting to be released, you can start adding more handling variety by mixing in something for the dog to wrap, like a tree, a barrel or a cone.  Handle from every position and if your dog understands your handling from every position and continues to maintain criteria on the Mark, you can begin to increase distance / speed.   You can see how much fun this is for my dog (and me). This is how the two of us developed our shared handling language that worked beautifully when we started running full courses.

(above)  Once your dog enthusiastically runs to Marks, sticks his landings, and waits until releases, put the behavior under stimulus control.  Heeling in close proximity to a Mark bucket is challenging mental work for the dog, but worthwhile for sure.  I like to alternate between heeling by the Mark and sending my dog to the Mark at trials before we run, especially if my dog’s attention is wavering.   It doesn’t take much space and you can work your dog on-leash, right in front of his crate before heading towards the ring.

(above) More advanced Mark training.   This video was shot at the tail end of a long Demo so Takoda’s enthusiasm was not as great as usual.

(above)  Lil, a barrel, and 2 Marks, January 24, 2015

(above) Sitting on a Mark before releasing reminds a dog to push-off from the rear vs. pull from the front.

(above) Mark training translated seamlessly to a flattened A-Frame

(above)  Introducing Pinwheels using Marks.   Takoda was nearly 4 months old.

(above) Group Mark session.  Takoda had a hard time staying on his Mark when Jake moved.

(above) Takoda being introduced to hoops and a Mark.  He was 15 weeks old.

(above) another rep running through hoops to Marks

(above) Takoda’s confidence was growing rapidly that day!

(above)  Mark bucket on the end of a flat plank.  Takoda was 3 months old.

(above) Group Mark session.  Takoda was 10 weeks old.

(above) Takoda early Mark sessions.  He was 9 weeks old.

(above) First Group Feeding Session.  Takoda was just shy of 8 weeks old.

The Benefits of Mark Training

Takoda_mark_12-18-16I recently posted the following on the Canine Jumping Forum Facebook Group.  The post generated a slew of questions, which I included at the bottom of this post along with my answers to make information easier to find in the future.

I do a lot of Mark training with my 3 dogs and have seen first hand how well it teaches dogs to collect, load, and use their rears to brake. I have recommended Mark training to agility friends (for various reasons) and they have seen improved contact performances, weave pole entries, jumping styles, and start line stays. As a result of all these experiences I think Mark training can help dogs with jumping issues (including dogs that leave out strides, jump early, stutter step, launch, dive over bars, jump long and flat even when a turn is coming, and even dogs with moderate perceptual issues). If a dog is still participating in agility, I believe the dog will benefit from Mark training (both physically and mentally).

I learned about the benefits of Mark training from Sharon Nelson, who gave me permission to share her words on the Canine Jumping Forum:

Owners will go to every seminar and try to solve their issues that are both mental and physical for their dogs. If it is my seminar, most will admit that they didn’t do their mark training (or stopped using marks the moment “equipment” started being used). If it is a training list to solve problems then no one will consider using marks for mental and physical conditioning. They will jump at the chance to try a new “move” from the handler or new fitness training using new Fitpaws equipment. I think Fitpaws can do great things, but it cannot mimic a dog in full motion and engaging muscles for stops and turns. You can strengthen those muscles, but that doesn’t teach the dog how to use them in motion. It is like training a race horse to run, but never putting them in a starting gate until the race day.

In the horse world, it is all about foundation. It is fully understood how the foundation MUST be there in order to get physical and mental excellence. But in the dog world, people go straight to the advanced moving steps long before they have any foundation for the dog to be mentally and physically prepared. It is all about getting to do all of the “handler moves” with little concern for the dog’s body.

The incidence of dog’s being injured and taking time off for “rehab” is at an all time high. Agility should NOT ever cause injury to a dog that is physically capable of doing the sport.

Early take off syndrome is rarely the real issue. But it is a cool name. A lack of physical strength and ability to correctly use their body is frequently the issue. But it is easier to be part of a group with a cool name than to do the basics using foundation exercises.

Mark training is really fun! But too many just do the minor work and if their dog will put their feet on a mark, even if done slowly and with no enthusiasm, they do believe that they have done their mark training. Mark training is all about the steps of combining the highest level of eager enthusiasm (EE) and impulse control (IC). It is that EE-IC that creates that high level of speed combined with accuracy. And so much of that “accuracy” is because of the dog’s ability to correctly use their body for collection and tight turns. Collection is used for those contacts, weave entries, and tight turns.

People will do a lot of “conditioning” while the dog is doing static exercises or going on long jogs on hard surfaces. But dogs also need to also do the training that engages the actual body parts needed for the actual behavior. But most dogs will just be run at jumps and expected to go over them without the strength training from “running” mark training. -Sharon Nelson

TIPS on mark training to improve jumping style (physical benefits): Gradually increasing the dog’s speed by increasing the distance between mark buckets will teach the dog how to brake from the rear, which is the same action (rear feet deep under body) needed to load for jumping in an arc vs. jumping long and flat. In order for marks to be effective to train a dog to load more effectively, the dog must target the mark with his front feet and stick the landing vs. knock over the mark or run past it, then turn around to place front feet on it.

TIPS on mark training to improve mental state: Dogs that “stress up” benefit from the “emotional anchor” Marks provide. Sharon has written extensively about the physical, visual and auditory changes that occur when dogs become over-aroused. Sensitive dogs that “stress down” may begin to worry about jumping after knocking a bar or crashing into a jump. For these dogs, using Marks in training increases their confidence. Adding mark buckets after a single jump, a row of jumps, or at the end of sequences offers these dogs something positive to focus on… the Mark and path to the Mark vs. staring at and worrying about each jump, which can cause stutter-stepping and/or launching in an attempt to avoid hitting the scary jump bars.

UPDATE TO THIS POST:  September 4, 2019.  In the coming months, detailed instructions and videos for using Mark buckets for jump training will be added to “Hit the Ground Running” Jump Training On-line Classes.  Its about time!  LOL – Dev Sperber, Moderator of the Canine Jumping Forum

(below)  Takoda’s first group mark session at 8 weeks old

The slowed-down video below is NOT an example of adding speed to Mark training. At 0:37, you can see my 9 week old puppy beginning to learn how to use his rear to stop with his front feet on a Mark bucket. He was also learning about impulse control.. not releasing on my other dogs’ motion.

Below is my puppy jumping 16″ a year and a half later. He had just started doing a little jumping at the time I shot this video. You can see how well he knows how to use his body to jump in extension and in collection… independent of handler motion or position.

Q. How does this transfer to the over-arousaed dog in a show environment? This can be done as part of the warm up routine or while waiting to go into the ring, but I don’t see its applicability during the actual run.

A. Mark training can change a dog’s mental/ emotional association with agility obstacles. “Emotional Anchor” is a great description of what dogs look like when stopping on marks after being higher than kites. I’ve seen the highest dogs on the planet learn to “keep their heads” much better at trials after doing Mark training with full speed and enthusiasm/ balanced by impulse control as described by Sharon Nelson. I believe jumping issues are the result of a combination of physical and mental issues. Mark training works on both at the same time. I hope you try it for yourself. I was not a believer until I tried it with my 2 mature dogs and saw remarkable changes.

Q. Tell us more. My young McNab is higher than a kite at shows. No fun to even run her she’s fine till I walk in the gate and it’s all barking not looking forward on some things. Jumping off the side of DW and Aframe. Has a beautiful teeter tho. She’s just so excited to go. Got all her Novice titles right away and I even took a year off and just do play time and walks and some conditioning. And she’s such a good dog. When your sending over the jump are you sending to the bucket? Are they supposed to stop with there front feet on the bucket them swivel around and come back?

A. That second video just shows my pup’s jumping style. I was throwing a ball as a reward or recalling him back to me. I could have sent him to a mark.. and followed by walking over to him to deliver a food reward while he waited on the mark. He has done a ton of that but would have made for a long, boring video. I have seen remarkable results with dogs like yours.. dogs that are fine until they see equipment, or walk into a ring, or see another dog running. I’ve seen barking, spinning, charging and even biting dogs calm down enough to keep their heads as a result of Mark training.

Q. Ok, I really need to do some. So can you give me a start.  I am more than ready to get going on this. Hope it helps.

A. To start, you will create value for front feet on a mark bucket. Once the dog gets that, you can gradually begin to add distance/ speed alternating between sending (lateral and forward) and recalling from greater and greater distances and with the handler in various positions.. close to the mark and far away until the dog races full speed with enthusiasm ahead yet sticks most of the landings. If the dog knocks over the bucket by not collecting, no biggie.. just no reward for that rep. If it happens a lot, then you have progressed too fast.

Q. This work is very interesting to me. I have a lot of trouble convincing my boy to rock back for collection and he wants to come in sliding on all fours. I have done some recalls to sit in front of jumps to try to help but I like the look of this. He has done all the pivoting on a perch so has a lot of value for this already. Once you can get speed on the flat do you put this in front of a jump?

A. You can have your dog sit with front feet on a mark, butt on the ground, sort of a “super sit” which causes the dog to really rock back. You want to do a lot of super short sessions where your dog demonstrates great speed and enthusiasm while also collecting on the last stride and using his rear to brake. Then add at least 2 more buckets so you are sending or recalling your dog from bucket to bucket (adding handler motion.. and handling the dog’s path like you would for an agility sequence). Then you can start adding jumps between the marks. I’d start with the dog at a comfortable distance from a jump (on a mark bucket) and place a second Mark bucket on the landing side of that jump about 10′ away from the jump for a medium sized dog. You may need to tweak the spacing to start. Consider adding the jump (and eventually more jumps) as an experiment… and keep mixing in a bunch of Mark to Mark sends to keep the dog’s focus on anticipating collection.

Q. What are the buckets? They look like feed tubs from Tractor supply.

A. Yes. The ones in the video above are the small size (good for mini dogs). There are medium and large buckets. I have some of each… which I use for different scenarios. The medium sized ones are great for my medium sized BC.

Q. I want to try this thing.  Never heard of it before so can you please tell me how tall should the targets be approximately?

A. A lot of companies make them. The size I like best is “4 Quart”. Here is a photo:

4_quart_mark_bucketQ. I *really* like the idea behind this exercise and have to admit I’ve never heard of it before… foundations or advanced training. I think I will try to get some video of my girl(s) doing this after they understand the position and play it in slow motion to see how well they actually shift their weight. it looks like the marks are maybe supposed to be somewhere between wrist and elbow height? Anything other pointers for a “good” mark?

A. I’d love to see videos! The cool thing about mark training is you can see collection and weight shifting in real time. Mark buckets are basic feed buckets you can buy at any feed store (and Walmart or so I’ve heard). Get the medium sized one for BC sized dogs. The tiny ones are great for my mini dogs and I used them with my puppy but they are a bit small to expect a larger dog to race up to and not knock over (although I do use them once in a while with my BC).

Q. I’m going to try it too, just a little confused on how to do it and start. It’s something I can do with my girl as I don’t have my equipment right now and she loves working and new things. Do we start with a clicker? Or just go from bucket to bucket.

A. from another member: I figure I’ll just jump in and teach the position… shaping it and building lots of value/enthusiasm for front feet on the mark with rear feet moving around it (clicking for movement, teaching pivoting into heel position, etc) and then start having her run (short distances to avoid too much momentum) between buckets. Then build up to changing my and my dog’s positions, distance from, speed, etc as my dog approaches the mark. Not sure if that’s the “right” approach to training it but I think the main components of the game are position (front feet sticking the mark), intense enthusiasm, and independent performance…

A. from me: Pivoting is not important for the purpose of teaching collection. Its just something I do with my dogs via ST! Once the dog is offering front feet on the mark, begin adding distance.  The main components of the game are position (front feet sticking the mark), intense enthusiasm, and independent performance. Please share your videos on the Forum. I’d love to see what you are doing! Love everyone’s  open-mindedness to something new!

Q. I’ll take some video of current jumping form as well as set-point form. After a while of working the Mark training I will video jumping effort again and see if my girl seems to be connecting the dots at all

A. I wouldn’t mix Marks with Jumps until your dog can reliably run full speed ahead to a row of Marks (the more the better but at least 3) and is able to stick her landings on each bucket with you standing past the last bucket. This will let you know she has figured out HOW to go from extension to collection.

Q. I’m still having trouble seeing how this transfers from a training situation to a trial. Do you gradually increase the number of obstacles between markers until the dog is running full courses? Have multiple markers within a sequence or course and not release the dog to the next marker until the dog has calmed down? And then this dog will ultimately be able to self regulate its arousal while running a 20 jump course at a trial? A standard course would be different than a jumpers course because in standard there are stopping points were a dog could self-regulate on the contacts, table. I googled this and could not find any information on the use of markers, pedestals, platforms, etc in this context. I would really like to see a before and after video of a retrain (a dog that was already trialing) of a very aroused dog using using this method…I do think that this is worth playing with as a strengthening exercise and an end of run “anchor”

A. Info about Mark training has been available through Sharon Nelson’s on-line seminar group for a few years now. At first I’m sure many people were skeptical and I understand why. I asked myself “What could be so profound about a dog doing nothing but standing on a low rubber feed bucket?” But my natural MO when presented with something new is to test it and see for myself. So I did, and was floored by the mental shift that organically happened with my 2 mature dogs… and I didn’t even know Marks had a “mental component” back then. I thought they were only about teaching dogs to collect. The thing I think you are missing is what makes Mark Training different? A mental shift occurs naturally when dogs have had experiences standing with their front feet up on a Mark Bucket. The posture of the dog, front feet higher than rear feet in the classic Rin Tin Tin pose, “grounds” the dog. Added to the mix is impulse control, as the dog learns to wait while the handler walks over to the Mark to give the dog a food reward. My description may not sound that different from your description: “….and not release the dog to the next marker until the dog has calmed down” but it is different in one significant way. With Mark training, once the dog has enough experience standing on a Mark bucket, she feels like she is in control, because she is. Once Marks have been integrated with agility obstacles (scattered around practice courses), dogs that “stress up” will begin to offer running to a Mark when they feel themselves getting too high instead of charging at their handlers, barking, spinning, or racing around grabbing obstacles. So instead of a dog that experiences stress automatically spiraling upwards out of control, Marks create a new behavioral chain: Dog starts feeling stressed. Dog runs to a Mark and stands still, which is calming and she finds herself quickly back in a good working state of mind. The dog learns how to lower her stress/ arousal by being still as experienced on the Mark. With enough experience, the dog can be asked to DOWN at a trial and the stillness has the same positive affect (vs. being punishment). In a trial setting, Marks are great for mentally grounding a dog before and after a run. I also like to use 1 or 2 Marks with a practice jump, to warm up my dog’s brain and body re: GO ONs and WRAPS. A dog facing a Mark bucket and asked to wrap the jump and come back to the handler vs. jump and go on to the mark is a great discrimination warm up. Once a dog is proficient with Marks, even just heeling a dog by Marks is a great mental warm up. Dogs become HUGE “bucket sucks” so heeling around Marks and not getting sucked onto one, lets us know if the dog and handler are working together as a team… but this is a side note.

Q. This sounds like a lot of fun, even tho we are working on a specific thing. I cant wait to get started. You know I have been doing Something like this with my dog, on my discs, but have asked her to sit and face me, so this is going to be some retraining for her.

A. BUY AT LEAST 3 MARK BUCKETS. You may end up wanting even more. I think I have about 13 in total which I keep in various places (my car, my house, my yard). One thing I have not mentioned is the benefits of rewarding dog in heel position vs. when dog is facing you. Its easy enough to do since the handler is walking over the the dog on the Mark to reward. Sometime hard to remember to do it though.

Q. Do you use them on a practice course after the dogs are good on them, and can you explain a little how you would run the course with the buckets out there.

A. Here is how I introduced my puppy to agility obstacles. After running him between Mark Buckets, I started putting a single obstacle between the Marks and VIOLA he took whatever was in his path (hoops, jumps, barrels, and eventually weave poles). Marks taught him to have great forward focus and to run straight lines in response to my handling. I didn’t realize it until he started trialing but we both learned EVERYTHING we needed to learn about handling as a team using just Marks, Hoops and Barrels. He learned back-side jumping (not that we use that skill), sends, go ons, wraps, swtiches, and backs (turning away from me in a 180) and he understands my handling close up and at huge distances.. all due to early Mark training. He is also a great jumper and performs contacts beautifully because of how well he uses his body (from Mark training). His start line stays are rock solid because of Mark training. He doesn’t lose his head at trials due to Mark training. He breezed through Intro, Novice, and Open without a hitch and is competing at the Elite level due to Mark training. Marks are the most profound training tool I’ve come across in the 8 years I’ve been doing agility. A tool best used throughout a dog’s lifetime vs. a prop you use for a while to “fix a problem”, then stop using it. Really watch your dogs when doing Mark training and you will be as blown away as I have been.

Q. And so in other words when you send them you dont want them to turn and face you, to stay in the forward position, this is going to be hard for my dog that always insists on looking at me for what to do or treats. Can we train it without treats or wean them off treats?

A.The hardest thing to train on Marks is the dog targeting the Mark and NOT spinning around to face the handler. You can recall the dog to a Mark, so the dog lands squarely on it and is still facing the direction she was running. You then walk back to the dog reward. I work on forward focus using 3 Marks in a row. I send my dog to the first Mark, and quickly release to the next Mark. After a few reps my dogs figure out they may be continuing on in that direction and will stop turning around to face me BUT this is very advanced and not really necessary since the Mark does not have a front and back like say a contact has. Its round and thus non-directional. So the dog is correct to spin around to face the handler when sent to a mark. In this scenario, the handler puts herself in heel position when rewarding the dog vs. asking the dog to move into heel position. Marks are GREAT for dogs for training dogs to stop looking at the handler. While the dog is running towards the Mark, she is looking AT THE MARK, not the handler. The dog learns to do this with obstacles too.. but first things first. Focus on the basic Mark foundation training. You will notice changes in your dog without having to “train” them.

(below) Link to indoor Mark session with 3 Marks in a row. Takoda was 4.5 months old.

(below) link to blog post with videos of Jake and Lil working 3 Marks (same set up as above)

(below) Takoda at 13 weeks old working on a flat plank with a Mark. Notice how his body stays facing forward while waiting for me to catch up.

(below) Takoda at 5.5 months first exposure to a pinwheel using Marks:

I had an AH HA about Marks as a result of Q & As: If a dog knocks over the mark bucket when released, have the dog sit before releasing for a few reps so they learn to rock back and push off from the rear vs. push off from the front. Then go back to standing releases and if your dog is like my 3, the dog will continue to push off from the rear (like from a sit) because the dog now knows HOW to get running as fast as possible.

(below) an example of releasing from a SIT:

Q. Are you telling him sit or waiting for him to offer it. And no Moms a feed bag, I like that. I realize that it may be thought that working a course with this may slow a dog down, but I look at it that a dog may be more thoughtful that is fast, and a slow dog eager to get to the next one. The reason it should work for me is that I am living at a place where I can’t throw a toy or ball as my dog takes off with it, doing a victory lap, lol, and I can’t have her doing that till she brings it back to me. We did that a lot when she was younger, but I was somewhere that she could run around. But in a way it was self rewarding, she is very head strong when it comes to her training and my main goal now is to not let her think she’s so much in control of me and what we are doing. Does this make sense.
And this does remind me of what Stuart Mah the great agility trainer once told me, to put targets around your course, even with a treat on them to keep your dog focused ahead, and work what he called city and country driving.

A. I’ll telling him to Sit in the video. I think most, if not all people would agree that a thinking dog makes for a better agility partner than a dog that goes over-the-top when entering the agility ring. A thinking dog has impulse control and understands that agility is a team sport that involves GO, STOP, GO vs. GO, GO, GOOOOOOOOOOOOO! I learned a lot from Stuart Mah! Lil’s earliest training was based on stuff I learned from him. Once a dog has been exposed to Marks, they are GREAT for proofing. My dogs are total “bucket sucks.” I regularly heel Takoda around Marks to test his understanding of heeling. This is another thing we do at trials for mental warm up.

Q. I’m really interested in this. My dogs never quite figured out the “rock back” part of a 2 on 2 off contact… especially the Aframe. It’s more a “run to the end and slam your front paws down…. or jump it… whatever.” Is there a way to incorporate this into contact training?

A. Absolutely. Prior to Mark training I didn’t think it was possible for a long-backed AT to stop safely on an A-Frame due to the extreme angle. But after doing a bunch of Mark training one winter, both of my ATs stopped very nicely (4 on) the A-frame. Mark training helps by teaching dogs to brake from the rear vs. brake by slamming front feet into the ground (2o2o).

Q. Dev- can you expand on how you use your mark bucket at a trial as a warm up. My boy is versed in mark buckets and I have thought about bringing to a trial just wasn’t sure how to implement them in a warm up.  I also want to use them for his jumping as that is his least favorite class.

A. Jumping is Lil’s least favorite class too! I like to use the marks in conjunction with the practice jump.. on the landing side of the jump.. about 10′ away then I alternate between GO ONs and WRAPS sending forward to the jump and laterally away from the jump. It lets me know if my dog is paying attention to my handling vs. just running to the visible Mark bucket. The things I do most often as a warm up after walking around for a bit are 1) pivots back and forth from heel position on my left to heel position on my right (moving my feet accordingly so my dog’s front feet stay on the mark as they rotate into heel position on the new side. This is great for focus and also for warming up their muscles. 2) Sends and Recalls to a Mark to rehearse the physical contact performance/ braking from the rear. If I have time to go outside to an off-leash area, I’ll take my dog and a Mark and add speed/ distance running to the Mark, mixing in some fun heeling stuff, especially if my dog seems a bit too high. Another thing I find myself doing more of with Takoda is heeling around the Mark mixed with releasing him to GO MARK. He REALLY wants to GO MARK on his own so its super challenging for him to heel within inches of it.. but he can do it (good boy). I think its a fantastic mental warm up to remind him that agility is a team sport!

Q. I’m sure I will be checking back in with this from time to time to see if I realize any new pointers that I may overlook initially. One question for you… my really intense “stress up” girl was introduced to this yesterday. We just did a quick learn position, then began adding intensity to “proof” the position before adding in handler variables and/or more Marks. However with adding in any intensity (any distance but calm handler, no distance but mentally rev’d, etc) I noticed my girl hits her mark in a crouched position almost laying her chest on the mark itself with front legs laying flat on the top of the bucket. She’s not tipping the bucket with this approach and I can’t tell how much weight is actually shifted to her rear or not but it’s certainly not a “standing” on the mark with front feet. Granted, she has been learning a lot of teeter behavior of “run to the end and wrap paws around edge” so that I *do* get a low center of gravity and hopeful weight shift so she may be offering this because of that… do you think I shouldn’t reward any attempts with this crouched position and when I do reward maybe give it to her high in an attempt to reward her standing up? Or does is matter and might fix itself as we progress?

A. I’d click (or say YES) when her front paws hit the mark but then reward her in such a way that she gets the food when standing upright on the Mark. I don’t think it will take long for her to skip the crouch. One more thing to pay attention to is how your dog takes the food rewards from your hand. This is something extremely valuable I learned from Sharon Nelson.. and is a great indicator of a dog’s mental status. If the dog starts taking food harder, gets grabby, or refuses food, you know she is not in an ideal working state of mind…. at which time I suggest shifting gears and working on THAT while your dog is standing on the Mark.

One other thing… I wouldn’t intentionally try to “add intensity” or do anything to rev up a dog that tends to go over the top. You want your dog to associate Marks.. and Agility with a good mental state vs. crazed… like the state of mind your dog would need to have while herding.

Q. On a side note I am really excited to see how this might benefit my young gun later in her career. I can already tell she will very much be a stress up girl and she gets aroused easily, LOVES to train and doesn’t care to think too much. She’s very athletic and intense which translates to sloppy with her body because she can get away with it. She will be my first personal “high” dog to trial with and I can just imagine how this Mark training might benefit her in learning how to *use* her body and stay grounded mentally even when highly stimulated. I don’t want to take away her excitement and arousal for the game, but it is my job to be a good trainer and make sure she can work with/through it. LOVE the fact that this can be done both indoors and without the picture of obstacles at first!

A. Mark training is invaluable for dogs like the one you are describing Alice! It doesn’t take away drive It helps dogs focus their drive. It also helps avoid injury.

Comment by me: One other benefit of Mark training that I didn’t realize was even happening until I started trialing with my youngster is we learned everything we needed to know about each other in terms of handling before he ever saw a jump or contact.. all done with Marks, then Hoops and Barrels. BTW–for non-NADAC peeps…. handling a barrel is like handling a c-shaped tunnel. The only difference is a barrel has an infinite number of entries and exits (which you can handle). How you handle a barrel and tunnel are identical in terms of what the dog needs to see before he runs behind a barrel or ducks into a tunnel.

Q. My first experience, my dog stood nicely on the first tub, sent to the second spin around and sit, its worse when shes on my right side, on the first tub I am right there so shes in good position. when I release her to the second one, she rushes too much to get there and even tho I am walking forward, they are only about 10 ft apart she gets there to fast and spins around looking at me and sits. So I got the idea to put her on a leash so when shes incorrect, I just get her back and attempt it again and when its right give the treat, So I am at this point helping her be right and keeping her under control till I feel comfortable to take the leash off , better to get more sessions correct at this point than a lot of practicing failures, so she will know what is right and what is wrong. This is really hard and going to try to keep sessions short, and a few times a day. Wow, what a challenge. Oh and I am waiting for her to look forward to the second mark before I release her so she gets the idea to look forward not at me.

A. Its OK that your dog runs to the Mark ahead of you and its fine that she turns around. Its VERY advanced to expect a dog to continue to face the way they were moving when the handler is behind.. and not at all important in terms of the core foundation skills she will be learning. If she beats you to the Mark, which she should be doing when sent, put YOURSELF in heel position and reward at your side when you meet her at the Mark bucket. Its important that the dog has free choice and its great that she is running with enthusiasm to the Mark. RE: what she is looking at when you release her, this is not so important in terms of core foundation skills… but I get why you want her to look ahead given the issues you have had with too much looking at the handler.

Q. About that grabby treat my dog is really bad about that I learned that from Amanda Nelson at a Seminar I went to with her. I wont have any fingers left during this mark training, its something I have to work with her every single day. Shes still a little grabby but its somewhat better I try to make sure not to rush the treat to her to keep her in a better calm state, if thats possible.

A. I’m with Amanda.. and Sharon on this topic for sure. If a dog gets grabby on the Mark, consider that as important feedback and then change your training objective and deal with that issue until she is able to take food without taking off your fingers. This is an important part of what she will learn on Mark buckets in terms of regulating her arousal level if you train the dog that shows up for the session vs. focus solely on your training objectives and goals. I tend to start Mark sessions with my grabby AT with feeding kibble (piece by piece) while he stands on a Mark. Once he is able to take the food without being grabby, he gets to run to the next Mark, where I test his ability to THINK again before releasing him to another Mark. It may not be the most exciting training session to watch but it is super important to address the issue of over-arousal anytime it rears is little head.

(below)  Takoda’s first time running Elite Jumpers at 22 months old.  He breezed right through Intro, Novice and Open and am I am thrilled with how well he is running Elite Courses, especially because we NEVER run full courses during practice.  My yard is not big enough and I only have 4 jumps.   Takoda was challenged on this course for sure, and I felt a bit of hesitation on some parts of this course but felt super connected from the moment we entered the ring.  I am convinced all the Mark training we did early on.. and continue to do has contributed to Takoda’s early success in and out of the agility ring.

(below) Takoda’s first time running Elite Chances

(below) Takoda’s first time running Open X-Hoopers